Why use Anti-fouling
Anti-fouling your boat is never much fun, especially in winter. But it's important if you want to keep your boat's bottom clean.
The seas around our coasts contain a mass of rudimentary animal and plant life forms, all competing for somewhere to live and grow. Known as plankton, these tiny organisms include the larvae of literally billions of barnacles, mussels and other sea creatures, together with seaweed spores from all around the world.
Plankton is most concentrated around our coasts, and in harbours and estuaries, where agricultural run off and water from sewage treatment works provides a richsource of food on which these organisms can thrive. Indeed, plankton is often dense enough to be visible during the day, and can sometimes be seen glowing on really dark nights. Everything in the sea is bathed in this 'soup' of living matter, and can become badly fouled within just a few weeks unless protected by an effective antifouling.
But apart from looking unsightly, heavy fouling makes your boat dangerously slow and difficult to manoeuvre in an emergency; which is no fun in heavy weather.
And as if that's not bad enough, wooden craft can suffer expensive damage from the dreaded marine borers Teredo and Gribble, which can reduce hardwood planking to a pulp in just a few months. All of these problems can be avoided by painting your boat with a top quality antifouling:so you can always be sure of maximum speed,minimum fuel consumption and good handling all throughthe season.
SEAJET 033 SHOGUN, 034 EMPEROR and 039 PLATINUM Self-polishing Anti-fouling are the ideal Anti-fouling for glass fibre, wood and steel, and can be used at speeds of up to 40 knots! In fact, motor boats owners who've traditionally used hard racing anti-fouling will find that SEAJET 033 SHOGUN, 034 EMPEROR and 039 PLATINUM give better results throughout the season without wearing through.
And SEAJET has been shown to be highly effective in all climates; from Norway, where it was voted Best Buy by two influential boating magazines, to the warm waters of the Caribbean, where it's become one of the most popular brands.
How does the SEAJET Self Polishing mechanism work?
SEAJET033 SHOGUN, 034 EMPEROR and 039 PLATINUM are selfpolishing (or eroding) anti-foulings, which react with seawater to give optimum performance all through the sailing season.
Within just hours of launching, this novel anti-fouling starts to dissolve from the outside, releasing biocide into the water at a carefully controlled rate. But there's much more to it than this.
The movement of water actually helps to smooth the surface, and constantly exposing a fresh layer of biocide to the outside world. So that Seajet Anti-foulings work just as well at the end of the season as it does at the beginning.
SEAJET Anti-foulings are also eco-friendly; so you can be sure that it protects the environment as well as your boat. Eventually though, most of the anti-fouling polishes away, and has to be replaced.The advanced self-polishing mechanism of SEAJET 033 SHOGUN, 034 EMPEROR and 039 PLATINUM Anti-foulings mean that only two coats are required for two years protection.
The self-polishing nature of SEAJET Anti-fouling products avoids the build up of a thick film as a result of regular recoating reducing the need of scraping off. Another benefit is that blue water sailors can apply multiple coats of anti-fouling.
Chugoku are a recognized world leader in new anti-fouling technology, which we mainly sell to large commercial ship owners. With our new polishing resin technology used in SEAJET 039 PLATINUM, the polishing mechanism delivers extremely longterm performance for at least three years providing the correct film thickness has been applied. No one has better technology!
SEAJET 039 PLATINUM is an environmentally friendly version of the old TBT (tri-butyltin) anti-fouling, which worked so well. The new patented resin developed by us in Japan is called a Self-Polishing Copolymer. Combined with the latest marine biocides, this offers fantastic performance and reliability over time and is therefore ideal for blue water sailors, serious racers or those who won't accept anything less.
Before we start painting
Firstly, you'll need to wear the right clothing. Painting can be a messy job, so you'll need old clothes or a pair of overalls; rubber gloves; and a hat. We also recommend that you wear a pair of safety glasses, especially when working underneath the boat.
And don't paint while wearing a woolly sweater or hat - as the fibres will get into the paintwork.
You’ll also need a few basic tools, including a scraper for scraping off any loose paint; some wet or dry sandpaper and sanding blocks to give the bottom a light sanddown; a bucket of water for the wet or dry paper; and brushes or a roller for putting your new anti-fouling on. And don’t forget some masking tape to mask off the waterline.
Anodes are best removed before anti-fouling, but if this isn’t possible, they can easily be masked up with some aluminium cooking foil.
After lifting out and scrubbing off, the hull should be closely examined for damage and fouling attachment.
This area was covered by the lifting straps during washing down, and needs tobe thoroughly scrubbed to remove all traces of fouling.
Grass, weed and loose paint should be removed using a scraper - with the sharp corners on the scraper, rounded off with wet or dry paper, to avoid gouging the surface.
Barnacles need more thorough treatment, as their cement contains a hormone, which encourages young Barnacle ‘Spat’ to settle nearby. So after scraping Barnacles off, their remains should be wet sanded until they are no longer visible.
Loose paint and blisters should also be removed by scraping back to a sound substrate. Larger areas can be dealt by slurry blasting. Chemical paint strippers should never be used on glass fibre, as they will quickly destroy the protective gel coat.
Osmosis is a common problem on glass fibre boats. Widespread blistering, or large swellings in the gel coat are a more serious matter, and should be dealt by a professional.
Surfaces to be painted must be clean, dry and free from oil or grease.
Bare surfaces must first be primed with a suitable priming scheme, filling between coats with an epoxy profiling filler to make good any undulations.
Existing anti-foulings don't usually need any special preparation, but they can be lightly wet sanded to remove small lumps and 'blebs' in the paintwork.
Anti-foulings must never be dry sanded or burnt off with hot air strippers, as even at the end of a season they will contain toxic chemicals. So wet sanding with fresh water is the only safe way.
preparing the surface.
Apart from being safer, the lubricating action of the water means that the job won't take as long as you might expect.
Propellers can be cleaned with a power drill and wire brush to give a smooth polished finish. The copper in bronze propellers usually keeps most fouling atbay, but a couple of coats of Peller Clean or SEAJET 034 anti-fouling can be used in areas where heavy fouling is a problem.
Finally, wash everything down to remove dust.
Priming the underwater hull
On bare and filled areas, you 'll need to apply touch-ups of primer to ensure good adhesion of the following coats. For a high performance epoxy primer, use SEAJET Epoxy Primers. This is particularly recommended when all the existing paint is removed and full coats of the primer system are required. SEAJET Multipurpose Epoxy Primer is also designed to seal prepared gel coat on glassfibre boats and is ideal for using on metal keels.
However, for small areas of touch up, or if a single component primer is preferred, apply SEAJET 011 Underwater Primer. Observe the correct over coating intervals between each coat - this information is on the tin. Use a brush for small areas or a roller for large areas. But will SEAJET anti-fouling be compatible with any anti-fouling that is already on your hull? In most cases it will be. However, there are certain Teflon based anti-foulings, which need to be removed beforehand.
If you don't know what anti-fouling was last used or if the condition of the antifoul is not ideal, the best solution is to apply a full sealer coat of SEAJET 011 Underwater Primer on your boat. This will give good adhesion to the following coats.
If possible, apply your antifouling during late morning or early afternoon in calm, dry weather. Don't antifoul too late in the day, especially when skies are clear, as the rapid fall in temperature will encourage overnight dew, which will spoil your newly applied paint. Surface moisture when painting will also cause loss of adhesion and peeling.
Apply a good quality masking tape around the waterline, and mask off anodes, shafts and fittings to protect them from unwanted antifouling.
Before you start painting, put a plastic sheet down to protect the ground, and wet the ground with water to prevent dust rising onto the job.
If you're working on a cold day, keep the paint in a warm place until you are ready to use it. Alternatively, warm the paint by putting the anti-fouling tin in a bucket of warm water. Warm paint is much easier to apply, and gives a much smoother finish.
Stir the paint thoroughly with a flat bladed knife. Heavy pigments mean that anti-foulings can easily settle. Thinning should not normally be necessary.
Don't use paint direct from the can; put an appropriate amount into a roller tray and replace the lid on the can. This prevents contamination and premature ageing of the main can contents. Mix the paint occasionally during the work; otherwise, the heavy biocides in the anti-fouling can settle to the bottom.
Anti-foulings are best applied with a roller, but keep a brush handy for those awkward areas that are difficult to reach with a roller. Lambs wool rollers hold the most paint, and can quickly cover a large area. But they can leave quite a rough surface, which is not ideal for racing boats. For a smoother finish, use a mohair roller.
When using a roller, apply the paint in a 'crisscross'pattern as if you were using a brush. This helps spread the paint evenly. Alternatively, get someone else to follow you with a paint pad. Don't work the pad backwards and forwards; or tryto spread it too thinly.
Apply an extra coat to leading edges...
Generally, you should apply two coats of SEAJET Anti-fouling. For SEAJET 033 SHOGUN, 034 EMPEROR and 039 PLATINUM this can last up to 2 seasons in temperate water. It's a good idea to give an extra coat of anti-fouling at the leading edges of the boat and above the waterline as this is where it faces more water-flow.
Throw away the roller head and clean other equipment with SEAJET Thinner A. Remember to use the recommended quantity of antifouling or it may not last the season!
As soon as the paint feels 'tacky', remove the masking tape before the paint dries hard. This will give you a smoother edge to the paint - and one which doesn't 'stand proud' of the surface.
Ready for Launch
Your new SEAJET anti-fouling can be wait up to six months before re-launching, but you should wait until the next day - any sooner, and there's a good chance that it'll polish away too quickly.
True colour will be seen after immersion because there may be some colour fade when polishing starts to release the pigments.
...and the waterline.